A continuation of a trip which started on Feb 15th
Loreto - 2/15-17 (here)
The drive from Santa Rosalia to San Ignacio, again through the arid mountainous landscape, took a bit over an hour
San Ignacio
San Ignacio serves as the gateway to San Ignacio Lagoon, the winter time sanctuary of the Pacific gray whale. and that was the reason to our arrival.
The Pacific side of Baja California in Mexico, is known for 3 sanctuary lagoons, to which
whales and tourists are attracted, during the winter season between Jan to March
Starting from the South and the closest to Loreto (2.5 hours drive) is
+Magdalena Bay (the largest Lagoon)
Further up North of Loreto (7.5 hours drive)
+Guerrero Negro (middle size Lagoon)
The lagoon is part of the Vizcaíno Biosphere Reserve. established by the Mexican Gov in 1988 and is also UNESCO World Heritage Site, the largest protected area in Mexico,on the edge of the Vizcaino Desert.
And in the middle between the 2 above, and north of Loreto (5 hours drive) is
+San Ignacio Lagoon. (smallest in size)
The lagoon is located 59 kilometers (36 miles) from San Ignacio town and Hwy.1
It is part of Vizciano Biosphere Reserve San Ignacio Lagoon, which is Latin America’s largest wildlife sanctuary.
Not only is San Ignacio lagoon a Gray Whale Sanctuary, but it is the last and only undeveloped nursery and breeding ground in the world of the Pacific Gray Whale.
In 1993 the United Nations declared San Ignacio Lagoon a World Heritage site because of its importance to the world community.
San Ignacio Lagoon is also the critical habitat for the near extinct prong-horned antelope and an important feeding habitat for four of the world's seven species of sea turtles: Leatherbacks, Hawksbills, Green Turtles and Olive Ridleys (all endangered).
There are about 8 Whale Watching Tour companies that offer various day trip to camping/tents arrangement packages.
Recommended by our dear friends Peter and Astrid we booked a 3 days (minimum) Cabins Camp package with a mid- range company named Kuyima
Antonio's EqoTours is another other mid -range, offering one and 2 days packages
More upscale Whale Watching Tour Companies are:
It is advised before booking., to check up few companies to determinate flexibility in the time range, accommodation- tents or cabins, and level of service/package
Prior to getting to the Lagoon we visited San Ignacio small town center and stayed an overnight there.
The small oasis town of about 500 inhabitants developed pretty much following the founding by Fr. Juan Bautista Luyando in 1728, of the Jesuit Misión San Ignacio Kadakaamán . which is located by the town's small square, in the midst of a large grove of lush green date palms.
The arid Central Desert terrain transforms into a large spring-fed pond and small river on the outskirts of town, that feeds into the central plaza and village next to the 18thC Jesuit mission.
Town Center
The over-night was spent at a Bed&Breakfast Cabin, in the midst of a wonderful oasis grove, right by the water stream.
Poniente 7 77, 23930 San Ignacio,
Considering the in-nature unique circumstances, staying at this place was a different, yet comfortable experience, and the included food was reasonable.
By the Fresh Water Stream, where swimming on a hot day can be fun
The Central/Dining area at the Camp
The Sleeping Quarters
It took about another hour drive, on the following morning, mainly on an unpaved road, from San Ignacio town to reach the Lagoon where the whale watching camp is located.
We followed the Kuyima company Van which picked-up other guests, heading to the camp, from the main office at the San Ignacio town's square.
Had we not followed the van we would probably, have wasted a lot of time in search for the right camp, as there are at least 5 other companies, settled by the
Lagoon and hardly, any directing signs are posted
With a local community of less than 100 inhabitants, the lagoon residents depend primarily upon fishing, and now whale watching as their primary means of support
San Ignacio lagoon was originally discovered by whaling captain Jared Poole, in 1860
The small Kuyima Cabin Camp compound is owned by local fisherman. It offers only 11 cabins and a central Palapa in which dinning and activities are taking place, right by the water..
The barren public ground covered with broken shells and sand is left natural.
The canines are small and equipped only with bear minimum basic, They lack in charm no panoramic window to enjoy the ocean view.
Cabins by Sea Side Dinning Palapa Communal Restrooms
Communal public restrooms and bucket pumped water to shower, being heated by solar energy, are used by all. The food is tasty but only O.K and the service is given by very responsive dedicated staff.
The same company also offers a Tent package, in another near by location for those interested to downgrade...
Twice a day, early morning after breakfast, and early afternoon, after lunch, when the digesting food still peculate, 2 motor boats carrying max 8 people each, depart with a guide, for the Whale Watching activity ,
It takes about 20 minutes ride, from the shore and into the lagoon sanctuary, where only 16 boats are permitted to wonder, at a time.
Each Whale watching excursion, lasts 90 minutes. for each entering boat
So sitting on a back-less wooden bench on a bumpy boat ride, for about 5 hours a day, with no back support ,and in a freezing ocean weather, is not my definition of having much fun..
The lagoon is divided into three sections.
The upper lagoon is the shallowest part and is known as the birthing area where pregnant females travel to bear their young.
At the middle lagoon is where mothers traveling with their newborns as the tides flow in and out getting their calves ready to join the majority of the whales.
at the lower lagoon.
At the lower lagoon, the majority of the cetaceans, is found, and this is where most of the social behavior occurs.
Here, males and females congregate looking for mates.
In addition newborn calves with their mothers travel the length of the lower lagoon preparing themselves for the long journey north to their summer feeding grounds in the Arctic.
On the afternoon of our arrival, the outing to the Lagoon yielded, a spectacle of about 20 Grey Whales at various sizes and distances,
They are usually being spotted by the spout of water they quirt into air.
The next day many more whales and Dolphins were spotted, arching, some jumping, and one head showing.
The whales didn't approach the boat, nor they were in particular, playful despite of our group efforts to whistle, sing and rattle the water to lure them, to come closer...
On the boat with Ashley and Richard (London) and Caira and Alex (Berlin)
Taking good photos of the sneaky speed- popping mammals in an d out unexpectedly from the water, and often in a distance, was another challenge.
Non of the photos taken are worth much... to put it mildly, so the good ones displayed are taken off the net or by others.
After 3 whale watching, sessions, the uncomfortable lengthy bumpy boat rides which gave us back pains compiled with the freezing weather, curbed our appetite for more...
so on the third day of the package',we departed the camp, and drove back to Loreto
Departing the Vizcaíno Biosphere Reserve.
THE END
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