Travel:SFO to Nairobi, Lake Nakuru,Kenya, 07/01-05/2026
- Jul 5
- 10 min read
Updated: 1 day ago
Following our last trip, in May to Italy (here), and just few weeks of being stationary in CA, David, our oldest grandson Leo (10) and I, headed happily on a beautiful summer day of July 1st, to catch an Emirate Airline flight to Nairobi Kenya, via Dubai . from SFO airport
We visited several African countries during the course of the past 30 years, however it was before I started this Lilis Diaries Travel Log, thus those trips were not recorded.
It is the first time this trip to Africa is recorded and posted.
The 2 weeks African Itinerary Plan included :
Fly from SFO via Dubai > Nairobi > Drive Lake Nakuru (and Lodge) > Fly > Nairobi > Arusha (Serena Lodge) > Drive > Tarengeri Park > Drive > Lake Manyara (Serena Lodge) > Drive > Ngogorongoro Crater (Serena Lodge) > Drive Serengeti Central (Melia Lodge) > Drive > Serengeti Western Kirawira (Serena Tent Camp) > Fly back > Arusha > Fly back to Nairobi (Norfolk Hotel) > Fly back via Dubai > SFO.
The Unexpected Glitches
At SFO airport's check-in counter we encountered the first nightmare drama ...one of several a few. on this trip..
To be able to get on a continuation flight from Dubai to Nairobi, passengers are required to show, on the first flight segment (to Dubai) a proof of Kenyan Electronic Travel Authorization (ETA)
The application process (here) needs to start at least 3 days prior to travel date. (costs about $35) and requires a valid passport, a current Selfie photo, contact info, flight itinerary, and info on hotel booking.
However we didn’t realized we were supposed to arrange for this authorization proof, and without the proof , Emirates airline was reluctant to let us board the flight to Dubai, Yet the staff at the check-in counter suggested we start the process and apply on the spot, in hope that by the time we board the next flight segment (from Dubai) the required ETA document would be approved, within the 20 hours flight's duration, from when we depart SFO including, the lay over (4 hours) in Dubai.
During the next 2 hours, prior to the flight's taking off , in which we got grounded at the airport’s check in desk, we frantically had tried to fill in the dam EAT application, submitting all scanning passports and recent photos, for the 3 of us,
The unfriendly user Kenyan ETA-site, time and again kept rejecting the submitted info,as well as all 5 credit cards with which we tried to make the payment, Thus all our efforts failed.
At the last minute when the check-in desk was about to close, the flight's boarding about to start, and all our trials with the website were in vain,, David convinced the staff to let us get on the flight to Dubai, risking we might had been stuck there, for who knows how long, until the authorization would come through. Had we have been stuck in Dubai, we would have lost
the rest of the tickets segments issued (there and return) on top of extra accommodation cost . So the risk taken was huge...
With this understanding in mind, Emirate's staff issued us the boarding passes and let us get on the flight. We were last to board the plane.
While on the plane and prior to taking off to Dubai, we call our daughter Inbal - a born savior, and asked her to log -in to
the ETA-site and apply on our behalf , while forwarding and feeding her with all the necessary documentation, photos and accommodation details, We manged providing all info, as the plane started taking off.
Though even Inbal initially had experienced some glitches with the E-site, my genius daughter successfully completed and submitted the ETA application for all of us . Miraculously the approvals came through, forwarded, and reached us within the first hour of the flight to Dubai. Thanks to the free WiFi provided by this great airline, we manged finally to relax and enjoy this lag of flight, which started so abysmally…..
At Dubai Lay-Over Pilgrims from Indonesia on the way to Mecca
Landing in Nairobi
Both Emirates flights' segments departed and landed on time and offered most comfortable service, However once landing
and successfully entering with the required ETA, another glitch was encountered..
The driver who was supposed to pick us up, upon landing (5:00am) at Nairobi airport, to drive us to Lake Nakuro - showed up not at 6:30am as we hoped, but at 9:30am
The Four Points Sheraton hotel, (the meeting point with the driver) which we thought was adjacent to the Airport's Arrival location, in actuality is located 2 km away, and required a short taxi ride, There we waited for the driver all these long hours.
The hotel was most gracious in letting us wait in its lobby, as well as was very helpful in communicating with the belated driver, Also the breakfast we enjoyed having at the hotel was worth-while the wait...
After 16 hours of flying , 4 hours lay-over in Dubai, 2 nights of interrupted sleep, and 3 more hours wait for a pick up at the hotel, my vision, by then, became blurred and my brain stopped functioning ... I was yearning for a comfortable bed in a cool dark room, and not for an additional 3-4 hours drive by land, from Nairobi, on a congested bumpy roads..
The Driver
Antony Kimani +254 705 369 688
Antony specializes in Executive not Safari driving, but it made sense to have him drive us to Lake Nakuro and in Nairobi during the limited time spent in Kenya.
The tall elegant calm driver, who usually drives non-communicative official members and diplomats, finally arrived, and masterfully navigated his car through the disorderly undefined A104 route, under on-going road construction and expansion. while being subjected to our non-stop chatting and questioning.
The 2 lanes main artery was loaded with huge trucks, motorbikes and unidentified non-motor mobiles, dangerously overtaking and almost crushing into the in-coming traffic from the opposite direction,
This disarray carried-on along all the way from Nairobi to lake Nakuro National Park, 160 km northwest of Nairobi.
While the road's margins = one long proceeding slums, were dotted on both side of the road, by disorderly wooden or tin shop stands, selling anything colorful imagined, in between roaming herds of cows, lams goats, donkeys and ducks .
Driving by the Great Rift Valley
The Rift Valley in Kenya is part of a "Great Rift Valley" that runs from Mozambique to Syria. and is a monumental 4,000-mile-deep geological trench created by tectonic plate separation. a massive formed depression stretching across the country from north to south. .
It is part of the Gregory Rift, the eastern branch of the East African Rift, which starts in Tanzania to the south and continues northward into Ethiopia,
It was created by the interactions of three major tectonic plates: the Arabian, Nubian, and Somali plates
It is famous in Kenya for its dramatic escarpments, volcanic formations, and a chain of freshwater and soda lakes.
Soda lake is an extremely alkaline, saline body of water with a pH between 9 and 12, characterized by high concentrations of carbonate salts (like baking soda). Because these lakes have no outlet, often intense evaporation causes the water to vanish, leaving behind striking, bright white mineral crusts across the dry basin.
Freshwater soda lakes support specialized, extremophile microorganisms (like halophiles). and a vast populations of algae, which in turn attract large flocks of water birds like flamingos
The main chain of lakes in Kenya include:
Lake Naivasha - high-altitude freshwater lake surrounded by acacia forests,
Lake Bogoria, - Famous for its erupting geysers and hot springs. and Flamingo Habitat
Lake Turkana - world's largest permanent desert lake, "Cradle of Humankind" due to ancient hominid fossil
Lake Nakuru, - National Park, to were we were heading
as it is known for its rhino sanctuary and as Flamingo Habitat
The beauty of this massive gorge's floor which sits between 30 and 100 km wide, covered by most verdant agricultural landscape and active volcanic topography of hills and mountains, in between its steep erect walls , is absolutely stunning.
Naivasha. Area
Arriving at Nakuru City
Established in 1904 by the British authorities as part of the White Highlands which refers to an area in the central uplands of Kenya.spans the Great Rift Valley and surrounding. It was traditionally the homeland of indigenous Central Kenyan communities up to the colonial times. It is an highly fertile, temperate swath of land encompassing over 16,000 square miles. During the British colonial era, this land was strictly reserved for European settlement and agricultural development
Nakuru is the capital city of Nakuru County, and its urban population of about 600,000.. It is set along the Nairobi–Nakuru Highway, and serves as a gate to the National Park
Passing through the city on the drive toward the National Park a Baboon herd welcomed our arrival on the main Road
Lake Nakuru a soda lake is surrounded by stunning Acacia woodlands, bushy and grassland, r and ocky cliffs.
It is one of the Rift Valley lakes, located at an elevation of 1,754 m above sea level., and is protected by Lake Nakuru National Park.
Water levels in Lake Nakuru have varied considerably, with the lake almost drying up several times over the past 50 years.
Since 2021, there has been an alarming increase in the rising water levels at the lake, caused by climate change.
Submerged under Water
The park is one of Kenya's most iconic protected areas, located in the heart of the Great Rift Valley and is part of the UNESCO World Heritage-listed Lake System of the Rift Valley
It is one of East Africa’s most important wetland and endangered species conservation areas.
The park with its 3 gates is renowned for its:
Black and white rhinos protected in a fenced sanctuary
Rothschild’s giraffe population, reintroduced for recovery
Flamingos and pelicans feeding in alkaline waters
Cape buffalo, plains zebras, water-bucks, elands, impalas, and warthogs.
Scenic viewpoints including Baboon Cliff and Out of Africa Lookout, Makalia water fall
Year-round big game are: tree-climbing lions, leopards, spotted hyenas, and jackals.
Bird-watching - 450 species of birds
Great White Pelican
Alkaline or freshwater lakes in Africa serve as the main habitat for breeding populations (total African population estimated to be up to 75 000 pairs) as well as for wintering populations of the Great White Pelican from Eurasia. Concentrations are found at the Kenyan salt lakes in the Rift Valley, where they feed on larger fish. Estimated daily food requirement is 900-1200gr.
On the weekend of the 4th of July, when in the US celebrations of its 250 years of Independence were conducted, instead of parades and firecrackers festivities. we experienced sheer elation, encountering parades of water Buffaloes Rhinos, lions, , Zebras Giraffes, elks, Gazelles and other God's wild creatures..
The 2 full days we spent in this National Park, exploring almost every corner of it, delighted at each wild treasure presented in front of our grandson eyes, was a sheer pleasure.
We manged to do 3 game drives, and saw almost all mentioned to be seen in the Park, from roaming great wildlife in thick forested and Acacia woodland to grassy savanna and bush vegetation areas as well as lake's life.
That also included a bird- view of the spectacular lake and habitat from the top of the remote Baboons' Cliff ,
as well as well as the only Water Fall site.
Baboons' Cliff
Makalia Water Falls,
The only waterfall in Lake Nakuru National Park is Makalia Falls, which is located at the southern end of the park. Fed by the seasonal Makalia River, it cascades 10 meters off a rocky cliff into a tranquil pool. nearby a public campsite It is a popular spot for picnics and bird-watching
What Happened to the Flamingos
While the park was once known worldwide mainly for its colonies of flamingos non were seen on this visit
Upsurge of water levels led to displacement of animals from the park and destruction of property, submersion of the main entrance gate and other park infrastructure
Since Flamingos are nomadic they left Lake Nakuru when rising water levels—due to prolonged rains and climate change—diluted the lake's alkalinity.
This environmental change prevents the growth of Arthrospira platensis (spirulina algae), forcing the birds to migrate to other Rift Valley soda lakes to feed.
Instead of the pink - Flamingo related color, once clustered the lake's surface, now large white Pelicans blanket the wet shores of the lake.
The Lodge we stayed in
A classic eco-lodge located inside Lake Nakuru National Park with views of the lake and wildlife
The lodge is a bit outdated, by now, and the food served was plenty but mediocre,
However the service and caring were definitely great!
The Pool and Grounds at the Lodge
By the Lodge's Water Hole Zebras and all kind of birds
Early morning on the last day at the park, before departing it, we inhaled last time the enchanting scenery of the Flamingo-less lake ,taking in the beauty and the devastation created the rise of the lake's water due to Global warming and then hit the road back to Nairobi.
allegedly via a "short cut", as to catch a flight to Arusha Tanzania
Another worthwhile lodge. at Lake Nakuru National Park is Sopa Lodge, set on the western escarpment of the Great Rift Valley, offering panoramic views of Lake Nakuru
Nderit Gate, Lake Road, Nakuru
Prior to our early morning departure, back to Nairobi's airport, our driver - Antony, apparently got a "good tip" at the Lodge, about a shortcut route of which part of the way was unpaved. Who-ever gave that tip failed to divulge, that the route may had been shorter in distance, however much longer in driving time, as the part of the unpaved road was very long... rocky and bumpy and demanded most of the time a very slow cautious driving …..
The verdant scenery through, mainly consisting of agricultural and hilly landscape was, though very beautiful. However "the short cut" took an hour and a half driving, on that unpaved road, before we finally merged into the paved main A 104 Hwy. on which we drove another 2 hours..
Once driving on the paved Hwy, a thick fog engulfed us (spared on the previous drive) which, further slowed down the drive, already very slow, due to the crawling congestion, even on the Sunday weekend day..
At Wilson Airport
Finally we made it just barely an hour before taking off, from the Small Wilson airport, when another hardship had to be overcome...
Wilson airport in the city of Nairobi, serves as a prominent domestic and international traffic. It is used mostly by general aviation traffic, with numerous airlines operating flights to various regional spots. The airport is known for its smaller aircraft and quicker boarding processes, catering to a range of aviation needs including charters and cargo flights. Industries that use Wilson Airport extensively include tourism, health care and agriculture.
Wilson Airport averages traffic of around 120,000 landings and take-offs annually.
Safarilink Airline which is Kenya's premier safari airline based in Wilson airport ,with a network of connecting domestic scheduled services to all the best destinations within Kenya‚ Uganda and Tanzania, fly passengers in small planes (10-14 seater and provided great service
The airline,asked us prior to boarding the flight to Arusha Tanzania,. to show a proof of Yellow Fever vaccination, which non of us got,
David’s and mine's advanced age exempted us of such a vaccination. However the airline insisted on giving the vaccination to Leo - our 10 years old grandson. prior to boarding the plane." This service is given at the airport
"Intolerance to Milk" is another good reason for exemption.and David's intervention spared the kid the agony.
Leo , who already had at the age of 7 years old, a "Test flight" in a small private plane, when being taken by our cousin,
for a short spin over San Diego in an open cockpit tw0 seater, during a previous trip we took him to Lego Land- Carlsbad CA, ,had a great time flying such a small plane, than and now again.
Nairobi Area from the Plane
To be continued....
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