Travel:Anzio, Nettuno, Sperlonga, Gaeta, S. Italy. April 20-21, 2026
- Apr 21
- 8 min read
Updated: May 26
A continuation of a trip which started on April 14th
London 04/15-20 (here)
Landing in Roma exposes one to a much different more pleasant lingual melodic pronunciation, Alas after British restrained taciturn, an immediate exposure to Italian cultural disarray is maddening. The Italian Passport Control hall in Rome was mobbed from end to end, with long disordered meandering lines, while impatient and dismayed visitors where pushing and cutting in line.
The cause of this major airport disorder....
was,that as of April 10, 2026, Italy has fully implemented the European Union’s new Entry/Exit System (EES), digitizing border controls and replacing physical passport stamps with automated biometric checks for non-EU travelers. This system is now mandatory at all Italian border crossing points—including airports (like Rome Fiumicino and Milan Malpensa) and maritime borders—to streamline entry/exit monitoring.
Face recognition and finger printing of each landing visitor, clogged the process..
After that time-wasting experience and spending more time meandering through the airport's long hallways in search of the rental car company, we finally headed down South toward Sorento on the Amalfi coast .
We have visited the stunning Amalfi Coast several times before, usually driving from Rome straight on the fast highway to Napoli and continuing from there
On this occasion, prior to reaching our prime destination, we drove through few attractive but less known coastal towns, set South of Rome, along the Western Shoreline of the "Levant Riviera ", by the Tyrrhenian Sea,
We stopped for over-night at Anzio
ANZIO
Anzio is a resort town in the Lazio region about an hour drive (61 km (32 mi) south of Rome. with ~ 60,000 inhabitants.
The scenic coastal route (Via Litoranea), SS148. via Fondi to SS213 passes through Lazio and Campania, 2 out of the 20 administrative regions in Italy
We visited 3 town known more to locals then external tourism.
Well known for its seaside resorts Anzio is a fishing port and a departure point for ferries and hydroplanes to the Pontine Islands of Ponza, Palmarola, and Ventotene.
Symbol of Anzio is the goddess Fortuna,
the goddess of Fate in reference to her veneration in the ancient Antium. which its archaeological remains, maintains the ancient town . The territory of Roman Antium corresponds almost entirely to modern Anzio and Nettuno
Along the coast are numerous remains of Roman villas. One, the Domus Neroniana, has been identified as a residence of Nero (the villa was subsequently enlarged by Domitian, Hadrian and Septimius Severus).
There are also the ruins of the villa of Cicero the Roman statesman, lawyer, scholar, philosopher, orator, and writer.
Remains of Nero Villa
Nero Statue
The American Cemetery commemorates the Allied landing in Anzio and the brutal battle against the Germans in 1944
.
The town bears great historical significance as the site of Operation Shingle, a crucial landing by the Allies during the Italian Campaign of World War II. The Commonwealth Anzio War Cemetery and Beach Head War Cemetery are located here.
Staying the night at a small non remarkable but convenient sea-side hotel
was a relief after the flight from London and drive from Rome.
Via Ardeatina 264 +39n069877278
Across from the Hotel
The following day the drive along the coast took us through Nettuno
Another resort city and agricultural center of ~ 50,000 inhabitants
The House of Neptune, or Casa di Nettuno e Anfitrite, was unearthed in the latter half of the 18th c excavations It dates back to the 1st century CE
Nettuno is one train stop south of Anzio
It was also once part of the historic Antium.
Roman god Neptune - is the symbol of the town. Its medieval castle, the castrum Neptuni, now known as the Borgo Medievale, most likely arose in the 10th. c
known for its medieval historical sites,(defensive walls and towers) charming old town, narrow cobblestone streets, and ancient buildings, as well as for its natural beauty, coastal features (It has one of the finest beaches in Lazio), and picturesque views of the surrounding countryside and Its touristic harbor that hosts about 860 boats ,
Also Nettuno is known for its signature white wine - Cacchione,
Sperlonga Most Charming
The next coastal charming town explored on the way down south, which is also my favorite is Sperlonga
Sperlonga can also be reached within an hour ride by train from Rome
Whitewashed old town perched on a steep rocky spur of the San Magno Mountain
Its name derives from the “speluncae”, the caves along the coast.
The medieval Whitewashed hilltop village is set against the looming San Magno Mountain which is part of the broader coastal, limestone Aurunci range. Below the village are attractive beaches spread about halfway between Rome and Naples,
The village on top rises high above the sea, and its outpost has always been the Torre Truglia, a watchtower to defend the coast from pirate attacks.
The historic village is a succession of narrow streets and alleys through which suddenly glimpses of the splendid sea are seen, and at which tourist trinkets are sold in small attractive shops
Torre Truglia
The historic coastal tower in Sperlonga
built in 1532 on the remains of a previous Roman watchtower.
After being destroyed by the corsair Barbarossa, it was rebuilt in 1611 and destroyed again by the Turks in 1623.
Ganaina Bijouux
Below the historic town and close by to the Tower..on the promenade, Janaina
a transient Jewelry maker was displaying on a stand her creative affordable bijoux, which i enjoyed viewing and buying. This free spirit.. and seasoned business women transitions between north Sardinia's beaches and this southern coast, selling her jewelry ,and in between loves to vacation in other world attractive beach spots.. Janain@libero.it. +39 3668109204
The Beach Strip seen from old Top Town
known for its "Bandiera Blu" (Blue Flag) clean waters.
The mountains above the coast and the coastal lagoons are popular for hiking and biking, with many trails offering views of the sea .
Emperor Tiberius Villa's Remains
Sperlonga is best known for the ancient Roman Sea Grotto discovered in the grounds of the Villa of Tiberius
about 10 minutes drive away from Spirlonga town's center direction Geata
Emperor Tiberius (14 -37 AD.) had his summer residence built. here.
The villa, sat on a picturesque cliff overlooking the ocean, dates back to the late Roman Republic and originally had several terraces overlooking the sea, several pools and a grotto
The entry to the ruins is through the small fantastic Tiberius villa museum
By the Grotto
The green landscape of the villa's surroundings and ruins, against the dramatic backdrop of the looming mountains and the blue of the sea water, just next to the public beach
is spectacular.
The Beach next to the Villa's Ruins
Today, a large fishponds and the cave in which some Important and spectacular Sperlonga sculptures, are the remains displayed in a museum on the site.
Famous replica sculptures from the Ulysses cycle, including the impressive Polyphemus and Scylla are on view.
Replica of Odysseus and Polyphemus group “Scylla group”
Cupid Athena Dionysus
Theatrical Masques
According to Tacitus and Suetonius,the roof of the grotto collapsed while Tiberius was dining, and Sejanus -(20 BC–AD 31) a chief administrator and confidant , rushed to save Tiberius, for which Tiberius in gratitude promoted him, thus launching his rise to power.
Tiberius moved to Capri after 26 AD
The new Lower Town
Recommended hotels in Sperlonga
Via C. Colombo Sperlonga. 0771 549496. info@laplayahotel.it
The seaside beachfront Grand Hotel La Playa offers great beach and a large pool along with views on the Ponziane Islands and Monte Circeo .
However the rooms are very basic, and the world "Grand" is a blunt misleading description of them.
On the way back, 2 days prior to departing from Rome, staying 2 nights at the La Playa hotel was a so so.. experience. During the May 1st national holiday, the place and the quaint new town's center which is a short walking distance from the hotel, were packed with local vacationers, Projected a very different ambiance from the sleepy town we first encountered when driving through in midweek, on the way to the Amalfi coast,
also changed our impression of the town which seems to be very popular with the locals.
Aroura , Hotel
is another quint beachfront hotel, more upscale, right at the new town's center
with private garden and parking
However it lack a pool.
Lupi di Mare Restaurant
Just opposite of Hotel Aroura, the small popular place for drinks and good food
overlooks the sea and sun sets
On Saturday eve. of our last day stay
the entire village joined the congregating incidental vacationers, at the stunning sun down, in the main beach square - plazza Fontana, for a musical performance and finger- food fair,
The large care-free noisy party continued into midnight
Departing Sperlonga
Gaeta,
"The Pearl of the Tyrrhenian Sea" offers beaches, nature, history and legends
Dating back to a valiant, 9th-c maritime republic, Gaeta is a Lazio seaside fishing port and resort, set on a promontory stretching towards the Gulf of Gaeta
Gaeta is famous for its 10 km of coastline, with fine, golden sand interspersed beaches with small bays and rocky outcrops. in which Serapo beach the main beach of Gaeta, is bathed by a crystal-clear sea.
it became one of the earliest locations of villae maritimae, seaside suburban residential villas area and luxurious retreats for the Roman elite owned,for example, by Scipio Africanus (236–183 BC) and Gaius Laelius.
Caieta Portus - (modern-day Gaeta) was a prominent Roman harbor and luxurious resort town on the Tyrrhenian Sea coast, and operated as a key port. It was linked to the capital of the Roman Empire by the Appian Way and its extension the Via Flacca.
The remains of the monumental villa] of Lucius Marcius Philippus, stepfather of Augustus, are in Hotel Irlanda in the Arcella area
Surrounded by the mighty walls of the Angevin Aragonese Castle, Gaeta’s historic center is a collection of narrow streets and small porticoes
Towering over Gaeta is the Montagna Spaccata (cracked mountain), said to be linked to Christ’s death, when an earthquake split the rock in three.
The Sanctuary of the Most Holy Trinity – a renowned pilgrimage destination founded in 930 AD by the Benedictine Fathers on the ruins of a Roman general’s villa – and the Grotta del Turco cave,( the Cave of the Turkish) a sea cavity accessible via a 300-step staircase
These places, charged with faith, history and mystery, offer an intense experience that blends nature, spirituality and folk legends
Present-day Gaeta is still a commercial fishing seaport and a seaside resort. NATO has a naval base here.
The port has been also home to the United States Sixth Fleet flagship since 1967, creating an unusual blend of Italian fishing and American military presence.
Il Ninfeto Hotel - Gaeta
Encountering on our way the Il Ninfeo, most charming hotel, off the road along the Gaeta coastline,was a delightful surprise.
Via Flacc km 22,700 Gaeta. 0771742291 info@grandhotelilninfeo
A small beautifully decorated hotel with charming garden dotted by Roman remains, an accessible protected private beach, and free private parking.
Formia
Another small quint coastal town, which According to the mythology the city was founded by Lamus, son of Poseidon, who was the king of the Laestrygones.
It appeared for the first time in history in 338 BC when, after the Latin Wars
It became a renowned resort during the Republican era for rich Romans to build elaborate villas and Horace called it "the city of the Mamurrae" as the rich and noble equestrian family of Mamurra had strong interests there, Remains of an amphitheatre and theater built in the 1st century B.C.can be seen.
The Scenery upon reaching the Amalfi Cost -a stretch of stunning coastline of southern Italy located south of the Sorrentine Peninsula and north of the Cilentan Coast overlooking the Tyrrhenian Sea and the Gulf of Salerno in Campania is absolutely breathtaking. It is listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1997,
Vico Equense
The charming town Vico Equense: offers spectacular coastal views.
To be continued.....
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