Travel:Lakes&Hill-Top villages NorthWest of Rome,Italy. May 17-19/2026
- 3 days ago
- 12 min read
While traveling in Italy (here) we decided to book, on a spare of a moment, a flight to Israel, after hearing of Trump's tentatively calling off plans for the U.S. military attack of Iran, for the sake of "civilized negotiations" which in my humble opinion is a guaranteed waste of misguided expectations ,time.and effort .
Tehran Refuses to Back Down on Trump's Demand to End Nuclear Program in Latest Peace Proposal It will not forsake its nuclear ambitions, nor stop the sacred mission of exporting Shiite Islam revolution, for which the republic was established, and for which the nuclear program intended both to protect Iran and to provide a security umbrella for fulfilling the "holy" evolution exporting mission
In reality the alleged "cease-fire" on Israeli northern border, is more of a
"fire that wouldn't cease" Soldiers are killed or maimed, daily in this war of attrition, being exposed to explosive drowns,
While also the exhausting intensity of the cumulative combat mileage, of the past 3 years is beyond the Israelis' soldiers gumption, and eroding moral, especially because the Gov. ignores the manpower shortage (the army needs need of 12,000 recruiters) for the sake of insane coalition survival reasons exempting the Ultra Orthodox from duty.
Furthermore, Hamas is alive and well re-armoring, while the blockade of Hormuz strait is slow in getting effective results, but devastating to global economy.
The limbo state subjected between the alleged "success" of the negotiations (Trump's wishful thinking) and any minute restart of another war round ( Netanyoo's wet dream) is the abnormal "new normal " in the country, and the world.
Yet, during the 2 weeks (May 3 - May 16) we spent in the country, the shortest ever visit since both of our daughters relocated to the US (July 2025,) besides seeing dear friends and family, we were amazed to witness the booming housing constructions projects in through the center of the country. Furthermore, Theaters, Cafes and restaurants we frequented, were packed with young and old,
Yet, hopeful but full of rage protesters, kept demonstrating against the worst inept Gov in the history of the country, congregating in public squares, and vigorously denouncing all destructive disasters, brought about by Netanuaoo's almost 20 years in power .
Mr. Disasters
Protesters hope to bring a change and disinfect the country off the catastrophic and corrupt events and values that have poisoned and fractured the society and its
most essential public services.
It is very much hoped that the liberal democratic block will unite and win the upcoming next elections, (Oct 2026?) so a functioning sane Gov. that truly cares for and service the national and economic interests of the country and its citizens and not only faction's interests,. can be formed.
As Shavuot Holiday was approaching, a pan on the the word which also means weeks,
states a desire that in few weeks Israel will be ridden off this disastrous corrupt electives
As Trump has been still disgruntled about Iran's latest unacceptable offer, and to avoid "being stranded" in the country, should the war resume, following the threats to attack Iran which Trump made (on May 14th)
David and I decided to fly out of Israel and continue our Odessea in Italy
The Lake Area
Italy's "secret" lake area of volcanic origin, in the North-western lazio region, is about an hour -an hour an half drive north of Rome. It consist of the following lakes we visited
Lake Bracciano Lake Vico and further up North Lake Bolsena
Tuscia Viterbese as the area is known and which the Roman name for Etruria, the land of the Etruscans., may well be considered among the most beautiful areas of Italy, from every standpoint: landscape, history and culture,
Yet, to our delight, it is less sought after, and less mobbed by international tourism.
The lake region is an important tourist attraction mainly for local vacationers, thus more tranquil, though not lacking in serenity, history and gastronomy.
The area is dotted with enchanting hill top villages/towns, verdant dense beech forests, and amazing panoramic views..
Agriculturally it is noted for its large Hazelnut trees chestnut groves, and small-scale olive trees, farming.
The Main 3 Volcanic lakes Visited
Lake Bracciano 32 km northwest of Rome, owes its origin to intense volcanic and tectonic activity from 600,000 to 40,000 years ago, which created many small volcanoes in the Sabatino territory
(the volcanic district and surrounding landscape northwest of Rome)
The lake is the 8th largest in the region (second only to Lake Bolsena) and one of the major lakes of Italy. famous for its clear water. As the lake serves a drinking water reservoir for the city of Rome, it has been under control since 1986 in order to avoid pollution of its waters.
Lake Vico pristine, ancient volcanic lake offers beaches, water sports, and scenic nature walks, set in a Volcano, caldera The crater was created by series of eruptions that occurred 305,000 to 258,000 years ago. It is one of the highest major Italian lakes, with an altitude of 510 and is surrounded by the Cimini Hills, in particular by the Fogliano (965 m) and Venere (851 m) mountains.
Part of the Lake Vico Natural Reserve - lakeland, marshland and woodland
According to legend, the lake was created by Hercules, who defied the local inhabitants by wielding his club. When he did this, a stream sprang up and formed the lake.
The lakes are widely used for sailing
(Lake Bolsena will be mentioned in another post).
Capranica
Capanica is located 66 km from Rome’s center
It is perched on a cliff at an elevation of 370m above sea level, along the northern Via Francigena, between the Cimini Mountains and the Sabatini Hills, in a strategic rural area: linking southern and central Etruria, The crucial crossroads lasted through the Middle Ages.
The small town of Capranica's surrounding is heavily wooded, and the historic center is mainly composed of 16th C. houses and small palaces.
cascading on the hill's slopes
The Anguillara family Norman descent. ruled Capranica from atop its castle, flanked by the Clock Tower, both located in the oldest part of town.
Hotel Cassia near Capranica Scalo offers comfortable rooms, easy road access and good value,
Canale Monterano
The village of Canale Monterano which is located about 40km northwest of Rome, is now a ghost town destroyed by fire of Napoleon's troops, It is in one of the most representative corners of the Tuscia Romana, between the Tolfa and the Sabatini Mountains,
Human settlements in the Monterano area date back to the Bronze Age, and the site later passed through Etruscan and Roman hands.
The noteworthy “Riserva Naturale Monterano”, within where the ruins are set is a rich biodiversity of woods, waterfalls and caves.
The 800m recommended walk we took from the parking area, through a beautiful nature path to the haunting abandoned village, revealed wild nature medieval ruins, and film history.
Ruins of Ancient Monterano,
Plunged into the green of the Nature Reserve with the same name,
the ruins of this lost village were formed
around a castle on top of a small tuff hill, where the people had taken refuge to escape the Barbarian invasions.
Among the ruins there are monuments belonging to many historic periods: from Etruscan tombs at the feet of the hill, to the big Roman aqueduct, passing through the Medieval Castle -which became afterwards the Baronial Palace- and, a great Cloister of San Bonaventura, from Renaissance times.
The facade of the castle with the splendid Lion, has become symbol of the city.
Within the Reserve, stands out the remains of abandoned Ancient Monterano, which still preserves remains of works attributed to Gian Lorenzo Bernini. Among these, a Church, the Convent of San Bonaventura, the Octagonal Fountain, the Baronial Palace of Altieri, the stone lion, symbol of the village, and an imposing Roman arched aqueduct.
The Pope called the famous architect Bernini to design the church, the convent, the front of the baronial palace and the fountain
Bernini's Base fountain
The village's decline came dramatically in the late 18th c when .In 1799, during the Napoleonic wars, French troops attacked and devastated the town, setting it on fire because the town t had refused to grind corn for the French army.
Shortly afterwards, malaria spread through the area. Faced with destruction and disease, the remaining inhabitants abandoned Monterano and moved to what is now the modern town of Canale Monterano nearby, leaving the old settlement to decay.
Since these mysterious, extraordinary ruins bear an incredible scenographic beauty, the place has often served as a set for films and TV series, for important films such as for the blockbuster “Ben Hur” (1959) and others
Terme di Stigliano. also are found here and, were already known by the Etruscans, and were later appreciated by the Romans for their beneficial qualities.
Bracciano
The charming small medieval town
set by Lake Bracciano is only 32 km northwest of Rome and dominated by its imposing Fortress/castle.
The remarkably well-preserved 15th C fortress, the Castello Orsini-Odescalchi (info) a Renaissance military architecture with its trapezoidal layout and six large towers which dominates the skyline,
one of the largest in Europe
It combined in the past the functions of a military defense structure and a civilian residence of the feudal lords of the period, the Orsini and Borgia, both papal families
As one of the largest and best-preserved castles in Italy, it was opened to the public in 1952 as a private museum at the behest of Prince Livio IV Odescalchi,- prominent 20th-century Italian nobleman.
The ancestral Odescalchi family traces its lineage back to Lombardy, eventually producing Pope Innocent XI. Historically, the first Prince Livio (Livio I) acquired the castle and the surrounding duchy from the Orsini family in 1696
This popular museum castle serves as center of cultural events and is highly sought-after as an international venue for weddings. The Castello has hosted several high-profile weddings such as those of Tom Cruise/Katie Holmes in 11/ 18, 2006, placing the cost of the event at around $2,000,000
The museum's rooms display a large collection of art objects: furniture dating back to the 15th and 19th c an extensive collection of weapons, early Renaissance paintings, a collection of 15th to 19th-c ceramics from central Italy and an archaeological collection of Etruscan and Roman artefacts.
Bracciano's historic center is a maze of narrow, winding cobbled streets lined with beautiful architecturally housing, local shops, traditional trattorias, and cafes
Food
At the squarer in front the huge castle we enjoyed lunch at Trattoria Del Castelo and the best Icecream at Gelateria Picchio
Stunning views of Lake Bracciano from the top of the village
Trevignano Romano.
A small charming, lakeside relaxing retreat town, a popular tourist destination within the regional park, Trevignano Romano, set on the northern shores of Lake Bracciano 47 kim northwest of Rome.
The scenic 3-km tree-lined lakefront promenade, on the Sunday we visited there ,was packed with out of town visors and many open market vendors .
The remains of this 13th-c Rocca Orsini Fortress, is set on a steep hill of volcanic tuff, and can be seen from down the lake. Originally built for defense, it was heavily damaged during a siege by Cesare Borgia in 1497 and left in ruins It offers from the hilltop panoramic vistas of the town and the volcanic Bracciano lake The castle was erected by order of Pope Innocent III,
The Roman built many villas on the lakeshore, some now below water.
The prehistoric village was submerged by the lake waters when an earthquake or other natural disaster occurred, similar to what happened to the Roman colony Baiae / Baia in the Bay of Naples
Etruscan tombs from the 8th - 6th centuries BC have been found in the hills north of Trevignano; well-preserved artifacts from two of these tombs are on display at the local Roman Etruscan Museum.
The magnificent imperial thermal spa and villa in Vicarello - former castle transformed into a luxurious Mediterranean retreat, .and the Aqueduct of Trajan 1st-c Roman aqueduct built by Emperor Trajan and inaugurated in 109 AD, were built later.
Spanning over 50 km, the aqueduct channeled pure spring water from Lake Bracciano to Rome, successfully supplying the Trastevere district and powering local grain mill
Capraola
Caprarola village of the Lazio region central Italy. is situated in a range of Cimini Mounts.of volcanic hills. about 50 KM from Rome
The village is dominated by the large
16 C Renaissance Palazzo Farnese looming over the beautiful country-side, surrounding below.
Villa or Palazzo Farnese
The sumptuous Farense pentagon was initially built in 1530 as a fortress, by the cardinal Alessandro Farnese ,who alter became Pope Paul III, as the town and the surrounding area was a feud of the House of Farnese
The Palazzo has a pentagonal plan and a circular courtyard in the center.
The palace is now open to visitors and owned by the State, offering a treasure trove of art. and beauty cultivated Gardens with fountains terraces and
The grandiose building is more than 30 m high on five floors and is divided into two zones: the summer zone to the north and the winter zone to the southwest leading to extraordinary rooms, Hall of Maps lavish staircase and marvelous frescoes.
At the Hall of Maps the world's map, and specific continents as known in the 16th C
Italy Europe America
David added: :The overall accuracy of these maps drawn by a combination of star and ship navigation, is incredible.
Terra Santa : the Hula swamp which was dried in the 1930’s to prevent Malaria is the size of the Kineret .
The Haifa bay and Jaffa bays go deeper inland .
The modern names are similar to the 1600’s names . In one map of Africa only one city is mentioned on the Eastern Mediterranean coast - Tripoli.
Africa and Madagascar : Incredible accuracy including Serengeti , Ngorongoro and Namibia .
White Nile in the Africa Map starts hundreds of miles north of Jinja, but it’s not surprising as the source was discovered 200 years later. Nearly ALL the names were changed by the British during their colonization.
Following the north coast of Africa many towns are mentioned, and in particular in Morroco.
The Straits of Hormuz and Malacca , now a days much in the news are accurately drawn .
Asia Ivdea -Palestina Africa
Alessandro Farnese made it his headquarters, making the village an architecturally unique place.
With its frescoed interiors, the magnificent helicoidal staircase used to climb on horseback.
Maps depicting of the then known world and magnificent Italian garden amkes this palace a jewel not to be missed
When the cardinal was elected pope in 1534 under the name Paul III. after only 4 years into the building project by Antonio da Sangallo the Younger
the construction was put to halt in 1546
The construction of the Farnese Palace in Caprarola was finished primarily by the renowned architect Jacopo Barozzi da Vignola. He completed the villa's transformation from an unfinished defensive fortress into a lavish Mannerist estate by the mid-1570s, though various additions and frescoes continued for years after
In order to enhance the view, Jacopo Barozzi da Vignola built the Via Diritta, today known as via Fellippo Nicolai, a long sloping perspective which was built between 1557 and 1564 during the construction of Palazzo Farnese. and which 'gutted' the town in two, dividing the medieval village into two districts, Corsica and Sardinia
Villa Farnese was used as film location in many movies and TV series, such as Medici: Masters of Florence, and The Two Popes
The hotel we stayed in is set in the area of Capraola vicinity, not at the village's hill top. but about 15 m drive from Capraola's old cente, by Lake Vico
By Lake vico 01032 Caprarola - Loc Scadenato + 39 076 612342. _39 0761612345
This modest hotel is set in a beautiful verdant surroundings on the lake and in close drive distance to many of the beautiful historic villages we visited.
It offers great services and breakfast as well as an accessible lake beach.
Ronciglione
located 55 km northwest of Rome,
the jewel of Tuscia, an ward-winning medieval and Renaissance village, is 0ne of I Borghi più belli d'Italia. "Most Beautiful Villages". It is purged on the southeastern slope of the former volcano crater now housing the picturesque Lake Vico., It looms among tuff houses and ancient churches, amid forests of beech, oak and chestnut trees.
Winding stone streets of the upper and lower historic centers leades through ancient gates medieval Providence bell tower, and Duomo Santi Pietro e Caterina built in 1660,
The stroll in the historic center was worse the viist
Carnival of Ronciglione, one of the oldest in central Italy, and the Palio di San Bartolomeo, a horse race without jockeys on a course that runs through the city streets, takes place in the town
Ronciglione,Recommended Hotel
Relais Villa Lina provides refined rooms within a historic estate surrounded by gardens, featuring a pool, restaurant and excellent service,
Sutri
Sutri is an Ancient town, set in a dominant position 50 km from Rome picturesquely spread on a narrow neck
of a tuff hill, surrounded by ravines,
Only in the west alone the village connectes with the surrounding country side
It is best known for its rock-hewn Roman amphitheater, a massive Etruscan necropolis, as well as a key stop on the ancient Via Francigena pilgrimage route.
The historical center of the village, is surrounded by the remains of the city walls. Small squares, elegant fountains. and houses with dark roofs, carrying Roman fragments between the walls
and medieval decorations on portals,
were encountered on our stroll
A unique unicorn fountain topped with the Farnese family crest, is located in the town's square
Etruscan craftsmen built what is the symbol of the town, the amphitheatre, one of the grandest monuments in Latium and Tuscia.,which was also used for gladiator battles. It was built between the 2nd-1st c BC. Outside the amphitheater, there is a series of Etruscan tombs with an arched opening (5thC BC)
Near Sutri, Located in the countryside, surrounded by greenery, Antico Borgo di Sutri offers elegant accommodation in a countryside setting, with a restaurant and warm hospitality.
To be Continued