Travel: Santiago Surroundings. Chile. Wine Region,Valparaiso,Val-Mar. Oct 24/2025

A continuation of a trip to Antarctica and other parts of Chile which includes posts from Oct 22nd -Nov23rd

1. Santiago -Oct 23-26 (here)

During the 3 days stay in Santiago we took one day trip outside of Santiago, and drove (on Oct 24th) through the Central's valley's Wine Region to Valparaiso.

Central Valley, a fertile geological intermediate populated depression, with a Mediterranean climate which is famous for being the country's primary home to Chile’s renowned wine region. It stretches for 650 km from Santiago south to the Biobío River . between the Andes and the Chilean Coastal Range, and is Chile's agricultural and economic heartland, Central Valley is divided into four regions:: Maipo Rapel, Curico   Maule, and Valparaíso Region - which

we drove through

Outside Santiago driving South through Valparaíso Region,  

The landscape of the dry Andes range changes once exiting out of the tunnel and driving south on the Pan-American Highway, which runs the length of the valley, through a hilly landscape carpeted by dazzling yellow poppy flowers, green orchards, vineyards, colonial villages with adobe houses and rural farmland

Casablanca - Wine Country

The city of Casablanca is located on Route 68  between Santiago and the city of Valparaíso, only 80 km from Santiago and 41 km from Valparaiso, at about 30 minutes southeast of Valparaíso and 50 minutes northwest of Santiago

Casablanca valley is set in the midst of a region famous for its refined cool-climate white wine grapes, varieties, as Sauvignon blanc , Chardonna and Pinot Noir - thanks to cool Pacific breezes, that offers complex, acidic wines distinct from warmer Chilean areas.

There are many wineries that fill the beautiful vineyards as well as most sophisticated local food that can be found in any of the area’s many restaurants.

Casablanca, a valley unheard of in the 1980th, was developed within the wine industry thanks to the leadership of grand visionary and legendary pioneer of Chilean wine producing- Agustín Huneeus who was the first to invest in the area and who introduced the world to wine makers and Casablanca.

He transformed the industry by championing quality, introducing modern techniques (like partnering with UC Davis), and shifting focus from bulk to premium, branded wines for the global market.

The coastal terroir which was developed by ambitious winemakers was motivated

 by a desire to produce world-class Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, Thus investors have put Casablanca on the international map, with the acreage under vine increasingly significantly over the past 15 years

The Casablanca Valley produces the most important white wine of Chile and has become famous for wine tourism. Today it is one of the most important producer valleys of white wine in the country, and has made wine tourism one of its strengths.

(wine Route)

Veramonte Winery

Veramonte vineyard - a well-known organic producer, was the only one winery in the valley which we actually visited +56 9 9015 5824

This a beautiful and distinguished winery located at the heart of Casablanca valley.

was established in the 1995

Its organic vineyards sprawl over 350 hectares, making it one of Chile’s largest contiguous vineyards. and it has become synonymous with excellence in wine-making.

Veramonte is a part of González Byass, a family company founded in 1835 that has maintained their values for five generations. Its origins can be traced when it was founded by the Spaniard Manuel María González Angel, who was subsequently joined by his English agent, Robert Blake Byass.

González Byass is one of Spain's best-known sherry bodegas, known for the

fino sherry Tío Pepe the firm produces. Furthermore the family's firm wine portfolio includes prestigious brands such as Primus, Ritual, and their signature Veramonte lines.

The winery offers attractive tours of its vineyards, which are surrounded by native forests and have a beautiful exterior setting with more than 24 species of birds,

Wine tastings are offered by passionate and expert team. The eclectic wine-making design facilitates allow the production of small batches of wine, which is conducive for the fermentation and aging, of both individual and experimental vines.

The local architecture of the huge visitor center (Casona Veramonte) and its interior are amazing, as are the views of the tended garden in the front and vines in the back.

The shop - offers an exclusive national wines, limited editions, Spanish wines and Gonzales Byass liqueurs, and the Restaurant Calicata - offers a simple and home-made gastronomy, based on fresh products from its own garden and ingredients from local producers.

Other recommended Wineries

Casa Del Bos Que - one of the most prestigious wineries in the Casablanca with a restaurant to eat in, The area is the closest to the Pacific Ocean, the westernmost and coolest zone, making it a benchmark in cool-climate wine production.

Wine of Maipo Valley -known as the "Bordeaux of South America" is the oldest wine-producing valley in Chile and considered the home of one of Chile’s best Cabernet Sauvignon. Pérez Cruz is one of the most recognized boutique wineries in Maipo Valley

Santa Rita Winery Tour, at Alto Jahuel - a small charming community

(For guided wine tour)

On the way to Valparasio Town

Valparaiso

Valparaíso is a major Port city situated an hour an half drive southwest of Santiago. The great natural amphitheater, with a particular geography of a bay surrounded by hills is dotted by many great neighborhoods, sprawling down its

42 hills.

The UNESCO World Heritage Town's center, is known for its colorful clifftop homes. bohemian atmosphere, historic architecture, vibrant arts scene and its gastronomy.

The ‘Jewel of the Pacific,’ as Valparaíso is known, lacks bathing beaches, but is the headquarters of the Chilean Navy (since 1817) and is also home to Chile’s legislative Congress. It the third largest urban area in the country, with a population of 300,000

and is one of the Pacific Ocean's most important seaports.

The key attractions of the city which is built on steep hillsides overlooking the ocean include its port and fishing wharves, funicular elevators, street art, the historic downtown, narrow steep streets, endless staircases, fantastic panoramic views and Pablo Neruda's house, La Sebastiana.(see previous post)

During the 19th c, the area experienced rapid growth, in its golden age, as a magnet for European immigrants,

That immigrants influx left their mark on the city’s architecture and cultural institutions, Many of them congregated around downtown’s Plaza Sotomayor.   The town long inspired poets and writers.

The city was also known than by international sailors as "Little San Francisco"  

The 20th c was unfavorable to Valparaíso, as many wealthy families abandoned the city.

The opening of the Panama Canal in 1914, and the associated reduction in ship traffic, dealt a serious blow to the region's shipping- and port-based economy.

Between 2000 and 2015, the city experienced a recovery, attracting artists, tourists, and cultural entrepreneurs, who settled as they were attracted by the city's hillside historic districts

Valparaiso's natural setting is indeed beautiful and no doubt that in its hey days it was most desirable attractive site.

However, though the town has maintained its colorfulness, and vibrancy, the town's high density, depleted and dirty streets, run down structures and an over- load of smeared graffiti take away off the city's appeal.

(things to do)

Places we Visited:

Market El Cardonal

Located in central/downtown area of a vibrant working-class port neighborhood,

It is housed in a charming building reflecting the city's European influences.

It is not a market that shines in order, but its chaotic and photogenic atmosphere,

is picturesque, and we enjoyed stopping by and getting some fresh fruits at cheaper prices, characterize to Valpariaso.

Among the most important hills where homes and neighborhoods of the city are located. are: Cerro Bellavista ,Cerro Florida, Baron, Mariposa, Cerro Concepción  and Cerro Alegre, Churches and houses, a blend of French, English and German architecture. were very noticeable during our few visit hours in town, mainly of the first and last mentioned neighborhoods offering the most attractions..

La Sebastiana.- Pablo Naruda House

Located on Cerro Bellavista /Cerro Florida, attractive for its bay/port views

The 4-story Hilltop house - (from 1961), the former residence of the Chilean poet - Neruda, offers 360 degree fantastic views of the city and the Pacific.

It is now (since 1994) a museum declared a Natural Historic Monument and a main touristic attraction of the city.

It is one of the 3 houses the poet owned and the most eccentric

The Nobel Prize for Literature commissioned in 1959 his friends - the sculptor  Marie Martner. and her husband, Dr. Francisco Velasco. to find something to

"escape from Santiago's fatigue" which initially was built by Spanish Sebastián Collado.

The View from the House

In addition to leaving inspiring verses, the bohemian poet and a compulsive collector, amassed the house's bright living room and dining room, separated by a circular fireplace. as well as the master bedroom, library. and all nooks and crannies in the house, with artifacts and trinkets of all colors and shapes, bought or given, from all over the world, fused with memories of his travels.

Some windows of the house were made in the form of ship skylights

and the largest of the house's terraces became a dining room with stunning views.

He initially decorated the house with old photos of the port and a large portrait of the known American poet Walt Whitman.

The narrow steep house contains in additional to furniture, also a collections of old maps, seascapes and other paintings, including a portrait of Lord Cochrane (legendary British naval hero who became the first commander of the Chilean Navy in 1818)

Also an oil painting showing José Miguel Carrera (Chilean military general one of the founders of independent Chile) shortly before being shot.

There are many other sea relics and curious pieces, such as music boxes and an old merry-go-round wooden horse,

Neruda's description of ​Valparaíso​ fits perfectly for his home:

"Valparaíso is secret, winding, backyard ... The stairs start from below and above and twist climbing. They are thin as a hair, give a slight rest, turn vertical. They get dizzy. They rush. They lengthen backward. They never end ".

“La Sebastiana” – looted after the military coup of 1973 and was restored in 1991,

Driving along Cerro Alegre

It is recommended after visiting the Neruda house, to take a drive along the hilltop's ridge above the house, on Cerro Alegre , until Plaza San Luis and then drive back down on Calle Templman (to see diverse street art) toward the port

Plaza San Luis Calle Templman The Port

Cerro Alegre (meaning "Happy Hill")

One of the 42 hills that make Valparaíso is a vibrant, historic neighborhood famous for its colorful houses, stunning street art (murals/graffiti), winding cobblestone streets, and bohemian atmosphere.

It offers incredible views, cafes, and unique architecture influenced by 19th-c English/German immigrants,

Museo Municipal de Bella Artes-Palacio Baburizza

Palacio Baburizza the Art Nouveau beautiful chalet, built  in 1916 on the Cerro Alegre by Italian architects,

Arnaldo Barison and Renato Schiavon for originally the Zanelli family.

It is named after its second owner, Pascual Baburizza a Croatian businessman who acquired the mansion in 1925.

.Remarkable details in its woodwork, wrought iron, and central turret are seen.

It eventually turned into a museum in 1971, and declared an historic monument in 1976

The museum's art gallery has a large collection of European and Chilean works - dated between 1800 and 1990 -, and is considered one of the most important public collections in the country.

Cerro Concepción

Part of the UNESCO heritage Cerro Concepción, the hill is also a colorful, historic neighborhood of European immigrant influences. with stunning bay views, vibrant street art, quirky boutiques, cafes, and historic funiculars (elevators), offering a walkable, artistic, and cultural experience

Viña del Mar- 'Vineyard by the Sea,'

Reloj de Flores - Flower Clock -  a botanical landmark at the entrance to town

Built for the 1962 World Cup, and the fully functioning botanical clock is still ticking.

Viña del Mar - most popular beach resort in the country, is set only 15 minutes drive, away from Valaparaiso .

Clean and orderly this modern coastal town is a sharp contrast to the charming historic jumble of neighboring Valparaíso..

Manicured boulevards, lined up with palm trees, high-rise buildings along wide well kept sprawling public beach, stately palaces, and great quantity of beautiful expansive parks and green areas., have earned the town the nickname of Ciudad Jardín (Garden City).

Peru Avenue

is the promenade along the beach strip,

where many of the modern high rises

are lined up, and through which we strolled enjoying the luke- warm weather the views, and the modern setting.

Viña del Mar  public beaches includes Playa Reñaca, the Salinas and Concon .

The Mediterranean climate of Viña del Mar, due to its oceanic influence, with warm summers and rainy winters, attracts many locals. Infect Vina del Mar is considered by Chileans as the best city in the country to live and work.

The town's name stems from the area's colonial origins related to the hacienda of the Carrera family (a prominent aristocratic historical Chilean lineage, famous for its role in Chilean independence) and since, the town became a popular weekend and summer destination for well-to-do Santiaguinos and other locals, but is much less known/ frequented by foriegn tourists.

Major international hotel chains (Hotel del Mar - Sheraton Miramar) lots of shopping centers, restaurants and bars. many museums, including the Museo al Aire Libre de Artes Visuales (Open Air Museum of Visual Arts), the Teatro Municipal de Viña del Mar, offer attractive cultural and gastronomical experiences.

Among its many gardens, Quinta Vergara Park is home to the Quinta Vergara Amphitheater, the early-20th-c Vergara Palace and the Artequin Museum, . The Museum of Archaeology and History Francisco Fonck features stone moai sculptures from Easter Island and shrunken heads

Driving Back to Santiago

To be Continued...