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Travel: San Sebastian, a Basque Jewel. Spain 3/29- 4/2/2023

Updated: May 30, 2023



Continuation of the 2023 trip

3/2/2023 - Amsterdam (part 1) 3/18-24/2023 -Tarragona (part6)

3/4-5/2023 - Amsterdam (part 2) 3/26/2023-Tossa el Mar/Costa Brava (part 7)

3/6-12/2023 - London (part 3) 3/27-28/2023 - Girona (part 8)

3/12-16/2023 - Barcelona (part 4) 3/28-29/2023 Zaragoza &Pamplona (part 9)

3/17-18/2023 -Catalan Villages (part 5) 3/31/2023 - Donibane&Hondarrabia (part 10)




Officially known as Donostia / San Sebastián the majestic city on the Cantabrian Sea


San Sebestian definitely begs a full stay and not just a visit. We had passed through town, several years ago, on another trip, but promised ourselves to return and properly vacation here for few days.





A blue sunny sky accompanied by an heat wave , unusual in March, with temperature high at the 30th C , welcomed our stay and lasted for 3 days before the weather turned back to cool, gray and drizzly.


From a medieval fishing harbor the town grew into a trading port,and later as of 1889 during the Belle Époque era where the Spanish Queen Maria Cristina established her royal summer house.,with the construction of the Miramar palace (designed by an English architect Selden Wornum), Since the town transformed into an elegant very popular international summer beach resort,



Basque and folk lore fests, golf and tennis tournaments, racing regattas high fashion,,

as well as a gastronomic center with its Gastronomic Academy" and food clubs, and many many excellent restaurants, (the city alone has 14 Michelin stars spread across 6 restaurants) have all put the town on the international desirable tourist destination



San Sebastian - a town of about 200,000 inhabitants, part of the Basque Autonomous Community, nestles like a jewel in a spectacular setting of circular bay with pristine white sand beaches - Bahia de Conca on the coast of the Bay of Biscay, 20 km ( from the France–Spain border


2 vast gold sand beaches -

La Concha, - unique shell shape the most beautiful urban beach in Europe,

and Ondarrets - calmer and more relaxing at the foot of Mount Igueldo


La Concha Beach


Ondarreta Beach




A beautiful promenade stretches between the 2 beach strips



The 3rd beach

Zurriola,- popular with surfers. is over the mouth of the Urumea river,





The small picturesque Santa Clara Island provides another 4th tiny beach


In the middle of La Concha Bay, nests this lush vegetation small island with its tiny beach, a singular lighthouse building, and a winding hillside path to walk around it

The island is also a great spot for bird-watching and watching views over the Sea

Small boat Taxi to the island with the service Motoras de la Isla. from Mt.Urgull side




The kand beaches are surrounded by gorgeous urban architecture and rugged green mountains, luxurious beachside mansions, and hotels as well as .wide stretching boardwalk lined with an ornate white railing , tended garden and unique lampposts,







The Bay is caped by by hilly landscape:


Mount Urgull adjacent to the old part of the city

Mount Ulia - extendnds east to Pasaia,

Mount Adarra south of the city

Mt Igeldo (overlooking Concha Bay from the west

where the panoramic views to the city and its bay are awe-inspiring.



Funicular to Monte Igeldo - building


It was fun to take the Funicular from the bottom of the Igeldo hill to its summit from which spectacular views of the bay and the coast unfold in full few,

There is an Amusement Park with many attractions on the top, for the young


The Tower at Igeldo Summit


The views from Mt. Igeldo toward the Bay and Town








El Peine del Viento ('The Wind Comb')


a contemporary set of three steel sculptures each weighing over nine tonnes, in front of the sea, next to Ondarreta beach, under the Igeldo

hill





The special rock formation around the sculpture


On the other side of Igeldo Hill






Ships roaming the pastoral hilly landscape


Old Town




The Parte Vieja (Spanish) or Alde Zaharra[ (Basque)Old Town

There were Roman settlements (from around 50-200 AD) in what is now the charming Old Part of the city.

The original old town was devastated by the 1813 fire to town, so what is seen is the reconstitution of the narrow alleys from the previous century.

Still they bear lots of atmosphere and come alive at night offering small restaurants , many many bars and Casino entertainment,

pintxos.(small bites) are the best to be found in the old town,



Old town was surrounded by walls until 1863, when they were demolished in order to occupy the stretch of sand and land, that connected the town to the mainland.


There is a small fishing and recreation port, with two-floor houses lined under the front-wall of mount Urgull.

The 12C monastery of San Sebastián el Antiguo ('the Old') located at Plaza de Alfonso XIII is mentioned in historical documents from the time of the foundation of the city

The current site of the Palacio de Miramar was once occupied by the monastery raised in honor of St. Sebastian


The Hottest central Spot in Town




City Hall


Located in front of Alderdi Eder parkea

and Playa de la Concha


This most emblematic and majestic building occupies the palace building that housed the city’s Gran Casino from 1887 t-1924. where, most influential people from across Spain and Europe came here to gamble their riches at the roulette tables. That is, until the gambling ban in the 1920s brought the casino to a close.


Among the high-profile figures that visited the Casino (now town hall), were the

Shah of Persia, León Trotsky and Baron Rothschild.

During the First World War, the casino building took in not only European political refugees but spies, among them the Dutch exotic dancer Mata Hari.



Elegant Lamppost on the promenade




On Cale Major


Current Casino Kursaal next to 1834 Teatro Principal the oldest in town




Great Bakery on Calle Major



The town is flooded with wonderful pastry and chocolate stores however

this great bakery on Calle Major shouldn't be missed


Galparsoro Okndegia -Great Bakery

On Cale Major 6,, 943 42 10 74

Freshest products and long lines












Plaza de la Constetucion



The alley leading to the quaint square


At the heart of the city is a neoclassical Constitution Square, the original setting for San Sebastian’s bull fighting;

The balconies surrounding the square are numbered as they used to be rented by the City Council that owned the buildings, to spectators.

Line with houses, tall arcades and numbered balconies retained by the Council, are all a reminder of past days when the bull ring and boxes were used and when bullfights were held in the square which is now doted with cafes and bars




The plaza get very lively at night





A 19th C Neo-Gothic impressive structure with towers., surrounded by a garden now bursting in Tulips blossom. .


The Basilica Santa Maria del Coro


Facing it directly on the opposite distant side at the end of

Cale Major, and by the foot of Mt. Urgull, is the 18th C Basilica of

Santa Maria del Coro - framed by two

towers,



Cathedral Bsillica



The Post office Building, (which is one of 2 identical structures -the other is a cultural center) is near by the Cathedral.


The Post Office




Miramar Palace, also known as the Royal Country House of Miramar, located above the Pico del Loro

(the dividing point between Playa de la Concha and Ondarreta). With its parks, gardens, buildings and outbuildings the Miramar Palace is the quintessential summer palace.



More belle époque structures

in 1912 the Victoria Eugenia Theater and the María Cristina Hotel were inaugurated , and was attended by Queen María Cristina .

From then on the theater and the hotel formed one of the most outstanding monumental complexes in the city.

Its period of splendor coincided with the San Sebastián's ,expaunsion

Victoria Eugenia Theater


In 1909, the construction of the theater and the hotel began simultaneously. The theater was conceived by the architect Francisco de Urcola ,who was based on other recently built European theaters. The hotel, for its part, was devised by Charles Mewes , author of several Ritz hotels in Europe , such as those in Madrid and Paris, and Urcola directed the project.




The most stylish exclusive hotel in town - Maria Cristina Hotel (Marriott)






Located opposite San Sebastian's Victoria Eugenia Theater, the hotel

opened in 1912 with 29 luxury suites, and was designed in a Belle Époque architecture style,




It is linked to the history and cultural life of San Sebastian and has been the main accommodation for the stars, the rich and famous .that attend the San Sebastián

International Film Festival . Among them were:






The Gothic church of San Vicente and the Museo de San Telemo,- a museum set in a former 16th century convent and dedicated to the evolution of the Basque society are all worthwhile. to see.




The Bretxa Market

Boulevard Zumardia 3

This market has a lot of history behind it: Locals have been doing their grocery shopping here for 150 years! It dates back to 1870 and has been recently refurbished.

The emblematic building was designed by local architect Antonio Cortázar, who is also responsible for designing a big part of the city of San Sebastian, known as the Ensanche (more here)




The modern city which was in large part built on the Urumea river's wetlands during the last two centuries. City centre and other districts lies on the former riverbed, which was diverted to its current canalized course in the first half of the 20th century.[ and now

consists of elegant tall apartments blocks ,promenades fancy shopes and gardens between Mounts Urgull and Igueldo


Beautiful Bridges over the River connecting the historic with to the modern Town




La Zuriola Bridge



The first of 4 located in the estuary of the River Urumea, one that suffers most the swell of the Cantabric sea. It opened in 1915 to connect the Boulevard with the Gros quarter, Made in Art Nouveau style as designed by José Eugenio Ribera, the same engineer that designed the Maria Cristina bridge.

The lampposts,are a work of the

also engineer Víctor Arana



Maria Cristina Bridge


The third and most beautiful bridge over the riverinaugurated in 1905,

The eclectic construction connects the center of town with the Estación del Norte Station - main railway station) and the Bus Station.

Engineer José Eugenio Ribera and architect Julio María Zapata were responsible for building it in 1904 in a record time of nine months




4 monumental obelisks crowned with formidable hippocampus, dragons on the railings and lampposts, located at its ends, and arecopies of the Alexander III bridge in Paris, of 18 m of high, crowned by sculptural groups.





Hotel we stayed at:


Zubieta 2 +349434470


A great historical hotel

right in front of La Concha beach

and its beautiful promonade




Hotel Londers




More sites of the Historic Center from around the hotel





Restaurants we sampled:




31 de Agosto Kalea, 943 42 63 62

a popular pintxo bar and Seafood, steak & small bites restaurant







Rekondo Jatxea Restuarant

Igeldo Pasealekua,57/

The Basque haute cuisine is good

The restaurant is about 3 km from the center on an elevated hill.

It is an elegant but very stuffy formal place with an oppressive atmosphere.




On the way to the Restaurant



The views from the restaurant elevated area


While visiting the town, delightful excursions were taken to 2 quint Basque coastline villages, Donobian and Hondarrabia (See here) located only about 20 minutes, drive away, from San Sebastian. (they can also be reached by bus from the city)


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On our last day of stay, in the city the historic center filed up with brave Marathon runners, who despite the cold rainy weather fused with gushing winds, battled their way through the closed off streets of town, with hardly any cheering-up crowd, which the bad weather chased away.

Infarct the weather was really bad for the past 2 days, and that made our mid-day departure from this amazing town, in which we were lucky to spend the past 5 days, exciting days, much easier,


The drive from San Sebastian through the beautiful most verdant Pyrenees countryside, back toward Zaragoza, where we planned to overnight, before we further continue to Barcelona, took an hour longer then planned, due to the irritating heavy rain fall and because unexpectedly part of the HWY - AP-15, got closed, that afternoon.

More on what awaited us in Zaraguza can be read here


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Best wishes, are being sent to all who are celebrating Easter Holiday, as well as

a very Happy , Tasty and Liberating Passover



The Israeli Philharmonic playing a Pesach Song



To be Continued...



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