Travel: Antarctic Peninsula. Nov 1-2/2025
- Lili Naveh
- Nov 3, 2025
- 6 min read
Updated: Dec 24, 2025
A continuation of a trip to Antarctica and other parts of Chile which includes posts from Oct 22nd -Nov 23rd
Halloween Decoration on the Silver Wind
Unexpected Expectancies
On Halloween the ship's Captain informed of the following, which I initially thought was an Halloween's prank,.. but was dismayed to realized it was not... since it was related to the Antarctic's extreme climate reality , yet it turned into a "treat.."
Due to an anticipated change of the weather front, a wreak storm was approaching, accompanied by mighty gusty winds, which would also impact the swell up to 20 m waves at the Drake passage. Since the ship can’t risk, sailing under such life threatening conditions, the disembarkation off the ship, which was originally due back at Port Williams on Nov. 5th had to be postponed.
As of Saturday, November 1, 2025, the weather reports and forecasts for the region, noted that the storm system would actively impact the Drake Passage leading to challenging crossing conditions. "strong winds and rough seas were expected in the Drake Passage over the next few days," with conditions potentially worsening into a storm or a period of high swells, around Saturday,November 8
Drake Passage experienced strong winds and very rough seas around
Winds: Forecasts indicated strong to very strong winds, potentially sustained at 25-35 knots with gusts up to 50 knots (gale force). Another report mentioned wind speeds of around 17-18 m/s (approx. 33-35 knots) on Nov 2nd and 3rd.
Wave Heights: The sea state was described as "very rough," with waves possibly reaching heights of 4.0-6.0 meters (approximately 13 to 20 feet).
Impact on Travel: One cruise ship departure (Silver Wind) was specifically delayed from November 5th to November 7th due to storms over the Drake Passage, indicating that severe weather was a significant factor impacting crossings during that general time frame.
General Conditions: November is the start of the Antarctic cruising season, and rougher seas are often a possibility, a phenomenon known as the "Drake Shake".
News report on a previous antarctic storm included a video describing a nightmare shake crossing, a Cruise Ship endured of huge waves on voyage to Antarctica
The news reported that passengers were rattled after their cruise ship returning from Antarctica experienced huge waves while crossing the Drake Passage, known for its rough conditions.
Thus the Silver Sea decided to extend the voyage for 2 more days, until this storm had moved on, and the sailing through the Drake passage would be safe.. Disembarkation date was moved to Nov. 7th. In addition to hosting the passengers on Silver Sea's expense, the company allocated a 500 $ per person to cover some induced expenses. related to the unexpected change.
The unforeseen changes, caused a disarray in our flight schedules, car rental and hotel reservations, for our continued travel in Chile, after the end of the cruse,
It was anticipated that flying out of Port Williams wouldn't resume prior to Nov. 8th and that we would need to lodge there on the night of Nov 7th, and that we would need to move the dates of all our reservations, to all other destinations.. A big headache... not just for us but for many other passengers as well.
Nov. 1st's morning, also opened with grey sky, endless monochromatic white scenery, steady snow fall, temperature at -4 C, and terrible visibility.
The ship,which seemed to be the only one to survive in this desolated glacial eerie universe, (no others were encountered for days) was sailing slowly through, surround by ice carpeted sea water, was determined to go on with the planned polar exploration ..
Morning Landing
Neko Harbour
Neko Harbor is special for being a rare continental landing site on the Antarctic Peninsula, showcasing Antarctica's raw beauty, of dramatic icy landscapes,and abundant Gentoo penguins,&seals,
The scenic landing site of a beach and small rocky outcrop was surrounded by a towering glaciers which are heavily crevassed. and by glacial calving large chunks of ice, splashing occasionally thunderously into the bay,
The harbor was discovered by Adrien de Gerlache during his Belgian Antarctic expedition (1897-9), and is named after the Norwegian whaling ship, and floating factory, Neko, stationed here from 1911―24 after the bay was discovered
Neko Harbour is home to approximately 250 breeding pairs of Gentoo penguins, some of which nest around the ex-Argentinian refuge hut
It was the first time David and I curbed our enthusiasm and didn't join the others on the zodiac continental exploration landing, but heard impressions.
Instead we stayed in., and observed from a far.
Later in the Afternoon
Amazingly a bright sunny yet freezing weather welcomed later in the afternoon, the sailing through the Gellache Strait ,.
The narrow waterway/ channel of almost 200 km long, is an iconic region separating the Palmer Archipelago from the Antarctic Peninsula
The Belgian Antarctic Expedition, under Lt. Adrien de Gerlache, explored the strait in 1898, naming it for the expedition ship Belgica. The name was later changed to honor the commander himself.
The area is also a research key site of the delicate balance of Antarctica’s ecosystems.
Towering glaciers, huge floating ice formations, mirror-like seas, and wildlife a haven for jumping fish, whales, penguins, and seals,
Orne Harbor is a cove one mile wide, indenting the west coast of Graham along the Danco Coast on the west side of the Antarctic Peninsula.
It is special for its stunning scenery, featuring towering glaciers, snow-capped peaks (like Spigot Peak), and contrast between rocky shores and ice.
It is a popular spot for zodiac boat excursions, to get a more vivid view of the scenery, and panoramic views of the Gerlache Strait. as well as to get closer to the colony of chinstrap penguins that nest in the cove.
It was first discovered by Adrien de Gerlache's 1898 Belgian of the Antarctic Expedition,
Belgian Antarctic survey of the Danco coast in 1898 and was then in regular use by whaling vessels in the early 1900s.
The name Orne Harbor was probably in use by Norwegian whalers,
.There is deep permanent snow and ice. Glaciers ring the harbor and steep peaks rise above. There’s a steep but safe hike up from the beach to the colony that sits on higher ground above the beach.with remarkable views of the bay,
The nesting colony of chinstrap penguins that have made their homes here
Nov 2nd Morning
An unusual sunny clear gorgeous day welcomed the outing this morning.
The ship was moored in the calmest serine water
George’s Point - Morning Landing Excursion
Rongé Island is a high, rugged rocky. Island, some 5 miles long, it’s the largest of the islands that form the west side of the Errera Channel, off Graham Land.
The Small rocky beach is on the northern tip of Rongé Island
Georges Point was first mapped in 1897 by the Belgian Antarctic Expedition and named after one of its members
The rocky cliffs and height of the island provides a magnificent backdrops and amazing scenery capturing the essence of this glacial antarctic environment.
Chinstrap Penguin, Gentoo Penguins
A carefully marked trail up to the higher ground behind the beach offered a fantastic view down over the concentrations of penguins along the shore, and the view over the bay towards Cuverville Island and the peninsula.
Huddling down to the Beach
Back to the Ship
Cuverville Island
Afternoon zodiac execration of this glorious sunny day
It is 2km by 2.5km island of a dark volcanic, a steep-sided rock dome, situated in Errera Channel , off the west coast of Graham Land in Antarctica.
The rocky dome dominates most of this small island, as well as the large patches of lichen and deep moss growing on the rocks, the only botanical species that can be found on the surface of Antarctica.
It is well-known for its Glacial and ice scenery, and massive population of Gentoo penguins. estimated at 7,000 breeding pairs on the island, hence it being identified as an 'Important Bird Area'
The Island is also home to several species of Antarctic seal, as well as an array of Antarctic birds, notably Antarctic tern, Blue-eyed shag, Cape petrel,
The shore is a beach of cobbles and boulders, a, backed by steep ornge moth covered cliffs toward the east and gentler slopes to the west.
The formations of the drift of icebergs is fantastical
With Luis from Mexico City
Lots pf Penguins' Porpoising could be observed
Discovered by the Belgian Antarctic Expedition (1897–1899) under Adrien de Gerlache, who named it for Jules de Cuverville (1834–1912), a vice admiral of the French Navy
To be Continued...
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