Travel:Between Puerto Varas&Puerto Montt. Lake Region. Chile. Nov. 10/2025
- Lili Naveh
- Nov 10, 2025
- 7 min read
A continuation of a trip to Antarctica and other parts of Chile which includes posts from Oct 22nd -Nov23rd
Drake's Passage Crossing 10/27 (here) Puerto Varas 11/8-9. (here) Antarctic Peninsula -10/ 29-31. (here)
Chile's Lake Region
The drive from Puerto Varas, around lake Lianquihue and toward the Osorno Volcano (see previous post) which dominates the landscape takes about
an hour
Intoxicating verdant dense forested vegetation accompanies both sides of the road
Its majestic beauty is seen from our hotel's window at Puerto Varas. 60 km away
The volcano is located on the Southeastern shores of Lake Llanquihue as well as on Todos los Santos Lake. to where we were heading
It was a bright sunny day when we drove by the mountain
The area is a popular year-round destination for sports, with activities like skiing in the winter hiking and trekking in the summer.
Covered with volcanic rocks and dust , almost up to its snow caped line , from the view was amazing, but too windy to take a walk on its edge.
The majestic snow-capped Osorno Volcano to the west and Tronador Volcano in the far east on the Argentinean border., were visible, on this clear day we visited the park , the water falls and the lake
Located 64 km (40 mi) from Puerto Varas along Ruta CH-225.
It is the oldest park in Chile, created in 1926 and is part of the reserve of the biosphere forests temperate rain-forests of the Andes Australes. The ever green vegetation of the Park corresponds to the Valdivian temperate rain forests in its mountain variant.
The park's protected area, is almost entirely in the Andes mountain chain, and is known for its amazing Petrohué Water Falls, and river which flows down volcanic rock chutes etched by lava.. With its spring's yellow bloom the scenery is mesmerizing.
The Petrohué River flows through the falls and further down from the falls, also into one of the most beautiful and virgin lakes in the south of Chile - lake Todos Los Santos. which is surrounded by volcanoes , mountains, and great forests of native trees,
The park trails are well tended and easy to walk on and is home to pumas and tiny pudú deer.
The explosive activity of Volcans Lava flows from these volcanoes is basaltic and and esitic.and the action of glaciers during the ice age. shaped the landscape
At this remote corner we were glad to run into Met Steven -a criminal lawyer and colonel at the US air-force , and His Wife JD, another adventurous couple from Carolina
Lake Todos Los Santos
Lake Todos los Santos offer boat rides to the visiting tourist and a cool swim in its few beaches during summer
The turquoise glacial lake located within the boundaries of the wonderful lush
Vicente Pérez Rosales National Park. is surrounded by steep mountains and dense verdant vegetation.
As recently as 20,000 years ago, the basin of Todos los Santos Lake was filled by a large glacier that did not withdraw until approximately 10,000 years ago
The present form of the lake is the result of glacial and volcanic processes
and it was formed only after lava flows from the Osorno and Calbuco volcanoes formed a dam across the lower part of the valley, trapping the water from the rivers and gradually forming the lake
At a short distance from the Petrohué locality, which is accessible only by boat the river, as mentioned flows through the Petrohué Waterfalls.
Maurirz - a small Boat young operator in his 30th, stopped us at the entry to the lake's car-park area, and offered a 35 minutes private sail in the lake with his small wooden boat, which is his main source of income.
The weather was sunny and friendly and Mauritz was most charming in its efforts to communicate with us in a broken English.
So we took him up on his offer, and enjoyed also chatting with him throughout the ride.
On the opposite bank of the lake, not far from the lake's entrance, there is the only single family wooden house, (2014) hidden in the woods, at this park's lake.
Fenced in the water , closed to the main house, floats what looks like an enlarged "doll house" . It was built for the children of the Santiago's Eduards family - the house's owner.
The Edwards family of Chile who are of English origin., became financially and politically influential during the 19th c. They have played and still play a significant role in Chilean politics, especially as owners of its most influential newspaper chain.
The main tributary of the lake is the Río Peulla/Río Negro,which enters at one side of the lake, where the small community of Petrohue , is located 2 hours away reachable only by boat, and exit out at the other end, flowing through the waterfalls.
Most Charming lodge inside the Park
Petrohue Lodge - Hotel& Cabanas
The exquisite eco- lodge located at the end of the park, by the entrance to the Todos los Santos Lake, is managed by Frantz - its owner, and the owner of several charming hotels of First Patagonia Company.
His family, originally from Switzerland arrived in 1860th and developed since then the Lake district tourism.
The setting of the lodge in this unique virgin environment is perfect for true nature lovers.
The drink we had at the lodge and conversation with Frantz was worthwhile our short stop visit there.
Following the exploration of the park, we continued for a short visit at the larger city of
Puero Montt, where we, also stayed an overnight upon returning from Chiloe Island
Visiting Puerto Montt
It is known as a gateway to the Andes mountains and the Patagonian fjords.
It lies at the head of Reloncaví Bay
of the Lake District,
The city’s setting amid forested hills, fjords, lakes, and the snow-capped Andes Mountains have made it a popular resort, despite the threat of earthquakes,
This larger port city by the Pacific ocean, and only half an hour drive, from Puerto Varas.
was founded as late as 1853 during the German colonization of southern Chile,
and was named for Manuel Montt, then president of Chile
Due to its strategic position it has also outgrown rapidly the other surrounding towns and has a population of 250,000
It is a commercial center for an agricultural hinterland, which yields grains especially wheat, potatoes, and livestock, as well as for the offshore fishing grounds.
The city’s industries include fish canning, tanning, and saw-milling
Puerto Montt has gained renown and grown significantly through the rise of Chile to become the second largest salmon producer of the world during the 1990s and 2000s.
The long waterfront promenade stretches along the bay, is constantly frequented by locals and tourists and features historical monuments. .
Monumento a la Colonización Alemana
Elements of Chilean-Spanish culture mixed with a German heritage characterized the city.
Located on the waterfront, This monument was inaugurated in 2002 at the request of the city's German Club. It is dedicated to the first 200 settlers who inhabited the region at the end of 1852.
The monument serves as a reminder of the city's rich history and German heritage.
by depicting a family of German settlers alongside a local resident, and also symbolizing the integration and collaboration between the German colonizers and the native population.
German colonists who arrived in the mid-19th c, significantly influenced the cultural and economic development of the area. The settlers contributed to agriculture, livestock farming, and the overall growth of Puerto Montt.
The city’s neoclassical cathedral, built from wood in the 19th c, (1856) overlooks
Plaza de Armas square. near the , Casa del Arte Diego Rivera -art center
Puerto Montt which long lost its natural beauty is not a great place to stay at, but has an authentic feel to it and a large Fish Market area called AngelMo arae with many restaurants, and trinket souvenir shops around it.
The Angelmo inlet situated 3km west of downtown. reveals a rugged bustling waterfront street and market, famous for its incredibly fresh seafood, vibrant atmosphere, delicious local eateries.
local crafts, and special waterfront ambiance.
It is true fun wondering in the area and enjoying the authentic. sights
Along the busy, diesel-fume-laden Av Angelmó the dizzying mix of colorful boats street-side stalls selling artifacts, smoked mussels, cochayuyo – an edible sea plant – and mysterious trinkets, craft markets and touristy seafood restaurants is a feast to the eye and taste buds.
The best-quality crafts and food are found at the end of the road at the picturesque fishing port of Angelmó, Upon returning to the city and spending (Nov 14-15) before flying out to Atakama, we enjoyed strolling and taking in the sights and smells of this
old market, We also were taken by surprise by special visitors.
The fish market garbage bins, is feeding attraction not only to a variety of birds but also to the local seals, that swims in the bay and feel safe to come out the water and feed off the bins, or rest next to them , right by the fish stalls and the amazed incidental tourists
Restaurant we liked at AngelMo
Considered the best Sea Food restaurant in town, but even in this one, a Chilean Sea Bass, (Corvina) one of my favorite fish, is not served in the country the fish is named after... The closest to it is the Black Hake
At the restaurant we met Russians married to Ukraine women (two couples) residing in Texas, who told us that they flew from Santiago to Puerto Montt for a day only, not knowing much of the area. In the conversation we had, they divulge that they are descendants of Jewish families ,however the third generation became part of devout Episcopalian Christians...encouraging us to follow the "true Messiah"
Argentinians from Bariloche which is about 6 hours drive away from Puerto Mont, pilgrimaged to this relatively largest and closest Chilean town, to do their Xmas shopping here, as the Chilean prices are much cheaper. then in Argentina
We met at the hotel 5 women friends who car puled together, and loaded their pick up with Holiday's gifts. a tradition of saving money, they have kept for several years.
Overlooking the bay and very closed to the town's center and promenade, this hotel as a transitional accommodation for a night or two, is ok but not great.
The restaurant on the 10th floor, where
breakfast is served worth the views of the pacific,
The weather on the last day of our stay in the area was so miserably rainy, that we were glad to move on to the next destination.
To be Continued.....
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